I reached Amritsar, the Sikh's holy city, by train from Varanasi, one of Hinduism holiest sites. A long train ride - a full day and a night, but I thought my visit to the Golden Temple worth the trek. I didn't visit the Pakistan border nearby - the only land crossing between the two countries, but I did pay my respects at the rather neglected memorial to the 1919 Jallianwala Bagh massacre. For my travelog see http://www.wilhelmswords.com/asia2001.